In this Article, I’m going to teach you
How To Socialize an AntiSocial Dog
Well Hello there, Welcome to K9 Nation. The name is Will, and I have been a K9 Behavioral Psychologist in the greater Portland area for over ten years, and I’m always looking for new products and techniques to help my clients with their dog in a variety of ways.
I decided to create K9 Nation for 3 reasons
- To be a resource for all dog owners who want to learn how to train their own dogs, on their own property, and in their own time.
- To help dog lovers to shop smart for their dogs, by making the mistakes for you, so I can point you directly to the products and services that are worth your time and hard-earned money.
- To fund the building and of the K9 Nation Sanctuary (Where dogs can live free without fear)
I hope this article helps answer some questions you may have. So, let’s begin.
- Black Text = Included in the video
- Green Text = Bonus Tips & Content
- Red Text = Warning or Important Notice
Antisocial dog Neighbors
There is no guarantee that other dog owners which you pass by on the street during your walks will be willing to help you out let alone allow social interactions with their dog.
In some neighborhoods, most people are happy to do so, but in other neighborhoods, they don’t even want to look at you. But, this step is necessary, so we’re going to have to find another dog owner somewhere.
There are Bonus Tips & Content towards the end of the article that is not in the video.
In cases of the ladder, try to find a couple dog-owning friends or family members, who are willing to spend some time at a given place, like your backyard or theirs. Or maybe you can find an empty dog park, parking garage, empty park, or vacant field.
If your location of choice is not fenced, make sure to have leashes for all dogs involved.
It’s Sniffing Time
Once a willing neighbor and a backyard has been located, for the antisocial dog, bring the unsocialized dog into the backyard first. Allow them to sniff around and become comfortable with the area anywhere from 5 – 30 minutes, or until they’re noticeably more calm and comfortable with the new area.
Bring In The Brood
Then, once the antisocial dog is calm I.E. not overexcited, fearful, aggressive, or territorial, then you can bring in the second dog. (Use a mussel for the safety of everyone involved)
Don’t Force It
Don’t force them to meet, just let them sniff around and eventually find and sniff each other naturally, making sure both dogs are on leashes and watch them both closely with a leash correction or Bonker always at the ready in case one dog attacks the other. The Leash on the Left Has 2 Soft spongy neoprene handles Ideal for training and walking.
Here is a good example a 15 – 30 foot Dog Training Lead like I mentioned in the Video. I suggest using a leash like this if your training in a large open or unfenced area
In An Attack
If there is an attack, administer a leash correction, bonker, remote trainer stem, or you can lay the attacker down on their side, and once he or she is calm and submissive, you can let the other dog come up and sniff while ensuring the attacker stays relaxed. Just make sure to be consistant, quick and assertive.
If All Goes Well
If everything goes well, and both dogs have a neutrality towards each other (which is what we’re going for) bring in a third dog and try again, so we can find out if it’s your dog that is the issue, or if your dog is reacting to the occasional dog that may be scaring or dominating them.
For a Dog that is fearful, aggressive, or overexcited, this structured meeting technique should be repeated at least 3 times a week for a month or so or until you see a dramatic difference in your dog, and it becomes an every day, no big deal to see and meet other dogs.
Then venture out and try to meet other dogs out on your walk and at parks etc.
Bonus Tip #1 | Strut Your Stuff
Another thing that can help socialize your dog is, while you’re out on walks, find others with dogs that are willing to help. Have them stand to the side of the path with their dog, while you walk back and forth in front of them. Be confident and relaxed with your body language, strut like you own the whole block. Do this as many times as it takes for your dog to stop reacting to the other dog. Correct any unwanted behavior immediately and consistently, and you’ll find your dog will calm down with fewer walk by’s each time. Do this exercise whenever you get a chance, others willing of course.
Bonus Tip #2 | Working With Aggressive Dogs
The Baskerville is a great example of a good quality muzzle that is made of soft but durable rubber so it’s comfortable for your dog, long lasting, plus it allows your dog to pant, breath, eat, drink, and receive treats during training. You can Click Here or on the photo itself to learn more about the Baskerville or see the current pricing.
Bonus Tip #3 | Make Em Wait
Also while your out on walks, don’t let your dog go right up to others and their dogs, if your dog bites, barks, jumps, pulls, or mounts other dogs. Again, if you can find other dog owners willing to help. Stop and make your dog wait until they have given up on meeting the other dog and have accepted the fact that this is as close as their allowed to get. Then have the other dog owner bring their dog to yours. Going around the back can help even more in some cases.
Bonus Tip #4 | Leash corrections
Leash corrections or leash pops are administered to either break your dogs tunnel vision/fixation or to communicate with the dog what you want. While walking your dog or leash training, it is important to have a loose leash at all times, as constant tension on the leash, naturally makes your dog want to pull in the opposite direction of the tension.
We should administer a leash correction as early as possible, as once your arm is fully extended it’s virtually impossible to do so, and once again your dog is pulling you down the street.
- Consistency Is Key
- Repetition Is Required
- Timing Will Tame
When offering any discipline or behavior correction, it would behoove you to do so, just as your dog is going for the unwanted behavior, or even better, just before they lung, pull, jump, bark, etc. Once you have lived with a dog for a while you should be able to know what they are going to do before they do it. If not, pay close attention from now on to their body language, it will tell you everything.
Be hyper-aware of your dog’s position, body language, and energy level, through the leash, as well as through your peripheral vision.
Click the photo below to check out my Article on the
iFetch Interactive Ball Launcher
So that’s it for this one guy’s, I wish you well,
Thanks so much for stopping by,
and until next time Remember,
Beee The Pack Leader, and be Safe.